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Metalwork and jewellery · buyer's guide

Under review

How to buy Jewellery and gem setting

جواهرسازی

Iranian jewellery ranges from gold and gem-set court ornaments to silver tribal adornment, often combining enamel, turquoise, pearls and coloured stones.

What documented Jewellery and gem setting looks like

Pair of earrings, 11th–12th century; Iran. Gold; filigree and granulation
Pair of earrings, 11th–12th century; Iran. Gold; filigree and granulationThe Metropolitan Museum of Art · CC0 (Met Open Access) · Source ↗
Necklace or Torque · 2000–1000 BCE · Iran, Luristan
Necklace or Torque · 2000–1000 BCE · Iran, LuristanCleveland Museum of Art, 1942.554 · CC0 (Cleveland Museum open access) · Source ↗
Portrait of a Girl in a Round Pendant, late 18th–early 19th century; Iran. Gold; enamel-painted
Portrait of a Girl in a Round Pendant, late 18th–early 19th century; Iran. Gold; enamel-paintedThe Metropolitan Museum of Art · CC0 (Met Open Access) · Source ↗

Reference photographs of documented Jewellery and gem setting pieces, credited to their sources. Compare construction, surface and wear with any piece you are offered — a resemblance is not proof of origin.

Jewellery and gem setting at a glance

Persian nameجواهرسازی
CategoryMetalwork · Gold and silver jewellery
Main techniqueswire-filigree, metal-enamelling
Typical materialssilver, turquoise
Places of makingisfahan, mashhad
Current vitalityLiving tradition

Understanding Jewellery and gem setting

What Jewellery and gem setting is and how it is made

History

Medieval gold jewellery with granulation and filigree survives from Iran, alongside later Qajar enamelled and gem-set pieces. Many archaeological pieces lack a secure findspot.

Technique

Techniques include casting, granulation, filigree, repoussé, enamelling and stone setting; tribal pieces are commonly silver with coins, beads and chains.

Collecting and identification

Metal content, construction method and later repairs are key; stone identification needs a qualified gemmologist.

This guidance is educational only and is not an authentication or valuation service.

General background on the craft, not a statement about any individual object; dates and attributions summarise common positions in the literature and remain under review. Read the full Jewellery and gem setting entry.

Before you buy: what to inspect

  • Look at the surface decoration under magnification: hand-worked lines and settings vary slightly, while cast or machine-stamped work is perfectly uniform.
  • Check for hallmarks or purity stamps on silver and gold, and ask what they mean.
  • Inspect joints and solder points for quality.

Typical materials: silver, turquoise.

Red flags: copies and 'Persian style' imports

  • 'Silver-tone' or 'silver-coloured' wording (means plated or base metal).
  • Very light weight for the size.
  • Cast reproductions of hand-worked designs.

A genuine Jewellery and gem setting piece should come with a named place of making in Iran (often isfahan, mashhad) and a clear statement that it is handmade.

Questions to ask the seller

  • What is the metal and its purity?
  • Was the decoration worked by hand or cast?
  • Is the piece plated?

What affects the price

Metal and weight
Hand-worked detail
Maker
Age

Care and cleaning

  • Polish silver gently with a soft cloth; avoid harsh chemical dips.
  • Keep pieces away from knocks and sudden heat.
  • Remove jewellery before swimming, cleaning or applying perfume.

Storage

  • Store silver in anti-tarnish cloth or a closed box.
  • Keep pieces separate so they don't scratch each other.

Shipping

Small, valuable items should be sent insured with a signature on delivery.

Disclaimer

This guide is educational. It cannot confirm that any particular object is genuine, old or valuable. For important purchases, ask an independent specialist. Read the full Jewellery and gem setting entry.