Traditional Persian jewellery: filigree, enamel and turquoise

What is Persian jewellery?

Persian jewellery refers to ornaments made in Iran using traditional techniques: filigree (malileh), painted enamel (minakari), turquoise setting (firuzeh-kubi), engraving and tribal silverwork. Many designs draw on Persian motifs such as the boteh, birds and flowers.

Key techniques

• Filigree: fine twisted silver wire soldered into lace-like forms, strongly associated with Zanjan
• Minakari: enamel painted on silver, copper or gold, fired in a kiln — an Isfahan specialty
• Firuzeh-kubi: small pieces of Neyshabur turquoise set into metal
• Engraving: patterns cut into silver surfaces
• Tribal silver: heavy ornaments with coins and beads from Turkmen, Baluch and Qashqai makers

Turquoise from Neyshabur

Iranian turquoise from mines near Neyshabur has been traded for millennia. It is valued for its clear sky-blue colour. Much turquoise on the market is stabilised, dyed or imitation; ask what you are buying.

Buying tips

Ask for metal purity and whether the stone is natural, stabilised or reconstituted. 'Silver-tone' means plated base metal. Look for genuine handmade work made in Iran or by Iranian makers — not 'Persian-style' imports.

Care

Store silver in anti-tarnish cloth. Keep enamel and turquoise away from perfume, water and knocks.