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Textiles, carpets and embroidery · buyer's guide

Under review

How to buy Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi)

رشتی‌دوزی

A northern Iranian needlework tradition associated with Rasht in Gilan, combining wool felt or broadcloth appliqué with chain-stitch embroidery for covers, hangings and saddle cloths.

What documented Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) looks like

Royal tent made for Muhammad Shah, Rasht, Qajar period, with embroidered and appliquéd panels (Cleveland Museum of Art, 2014.388)
Royal tent made for Muhammad Shah, Rasht, Qajar period, with embroidered and appliquéd panels (Cleveland Museum of Art, 2014.388)Cleveland Museum of Art · CC0 (museum open access, via Wikimedia Commons) · Source ↗

Reference photographs of documented Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) pieces, credited to their sources. Compare construction, surface and wear with any piece you are offered — a resemblance is not proof of origin.

Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) at a glance

Persian nameرشتی‌دوزی
CategoryTextiles · Appliqué and chain-stitch embroidery
Main techniqueschain-stitch, appliqué-inlay
Typical materialswool, silk
Places of makingNot documented
Current vitalityAt risk

Understanding Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi)

What Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) is and how it is made

History

Rasht work is widely associated with 19th-century Qajar production and is represented in several museum collections; labels in older collections sometimes group it loosely with other patchwork or appliqué work.

Technique

Coloured cloth pieces are cut, laid and stitched onto a ground; outlines and fills are then worked in chain stitch, sometimes with a hook (tambour) and sometimes with a needle, often in silk thread.

Collecting and identification

Look at the joins between appliqué pieces, stitch type and the ground cloth; moth damage and fading of dyes are common condition issues.

This guidance is educational only and is not an authentication or valuation service.

General background on the craft, not a statement about any individual object; dates and attributions summarise common positions in the literature and remain under review. Read the full Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) entry.

Before you buy: what to inspect

  • Rasht-duzi combines appliqué (cut felt or wool pieces) with chain-stitch outlines; check that the appliqué pieces are hand-stitched.
  • Turn the piece over: hand embroidery shows knots, thread joins and slightly uneven stitch lengths on the back.
  • Machine embroidery has perfectly repeated stitches and often a paper or fabric stabiliser left on the back.

Typical materials: wool, silk.

Red flags: copies and 'Persian style' imports

  • Machine chain-stitch on synthetic felt sold as hand-made.
  • Printed imitation appliqué.

A genuine Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) piece should come with a named place of making in Iran and a clear statement that it is handmade.

Questions to ask the seller

  • Was the chain stitch worked by hand or with a machine?
  • What is the ground fabric?
  • Was it made in Gilan?

What affects the price

Hand stitching
Density of the chain-stitch
Size
Maker

Care and cleaning

  • Do not iron directly on the embroidery; press from the back through a cloth if needed.
  • Display away from direct sunlight, which fades silk and wool threads.
  • Have older or metal-thread pieces cleaned by a textile conservator, not a general dry cleaner.

Storage

  • Roll with the pile facing inward, never fold.
  • Wrap in breathable cotton, not plastic.
  • Protect against moths with regular airing and inspection.

Shipping

Rolled textiles travel well; ask for tube or rolled packing and tracked delivery.

Disclaimer

This guide is educational. It cannot confirm that any particular object is genuine, old or valuable. For important purchases, ask an independent specialist. Read the full Rasht embroidery (Rasht-duzi) entry.