Zari-bafi: Persian gold-thread brocade explained

The basics

Zari-bafi combines a silk ground with supplementary wefts of zari — thin silk or cotton cores wrapped in gilded or silvered metal strip. A drawloom operator lifts the pattern warps so the metal threads float over the surface only where the design needs them.

History in brief

Safavid courts in Isfahan and Kashan commissioned figured gold brocades for robes, gifts and furnishings. Later demand declined, and today small workshops — Isfahan is often mentioned — weave zari-bafi largely for ceremonial, museum or high-end commissions.

Telling it apart from printed fabric

• Metal threads are raised and catch the light from different angles
• The reverse shows weft floats, not a blank back
• Real metal thread can tarnish slightly at the edges
• Printed 'gold' sits flat and cracks when creased

Caring for metal-thread textiles

Avoid moisture, which tarnishes the metal and weakens silk. Never use metal polish. Store flat with acid-free tissue between layers and keep away from rubber and wool storage boxes that release sulphur.

A note on this guide

This is a general introduction written by the CraftPersia editorial team and has not yet been reviewed by a specialist. Workshop practice varies between towns and families; treat dates and figures as approximate and confirm details with makers, museums or published scholarship before relying on them.